American Workwear 2 is AVANT’s fourth issue — a sequel to our very first issue, published in February 2019.
In this volume, we explore the human stories and the collector-grade artifacts that shaped American workwear: Chinese immigrants during the Gold Rush, the discovery of rare Levi’s pants from 1880 in a California mine, and the small construction details that make collectors’ hearts race — from vent holes on work shirts to the famous chinstrap.
Levi Strauss & Co.’s former historian Lynn Downey looks back on her journey, while Taiwanese vintage aficionados explain why vintage is rising in Taiwan. We also sit down with Akira Tsuchida (Mushroom Vintage) and Michael Harris, author of Jeans of the Old West, for conversations that go deep into denim history, research, and obsession.
Each story is a window into the United States’ past — and a modern perspective on how these clothes continue to influence culture, style, and the way we look at history today.
What’s inside (highlights)
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Chinese immigration during the Gold Rush: a vital history too rarely told
Stronghold in Los Angeles: the iconic brand collectors chase
Underhill, the pride of Colorado: a slice of local workwear history
The true story of the New Nevada Jeans: from mine discovery to Levi’s archives
In Taiwan, vintage is rising: the new generation and its growing scene
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Larry McKaughan & Rin Tanaka: how King of Vintage became cult
Lynn Downey: 25 years as Levi Strauss & Co. archivist and historian
Akira Tsuchida (Mushroom Vintage): premium pieces and a global audience
Michael Harris: the mind behind Jeans of the Old West
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Three Horse Power: exclusive cover painting by Greg Newbold
Real Photo “Past-Card”: ten RPPC from the late Mike Hersh archives + Eric Maggiori’s collection
Private Collection: rare American workwear pieces from Eric Maggiori, Alberto Ulmi, and Wouter Munnichs
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What is the chinstrap?
The history of vent holes on work shirts
Preface by Nigel Cabourn