In this third issue, An Anthology of French Workwear, we dig into the history of France with a particular focus on workers, farmers, and peasants during the 19th and 20th centuries.
We converse with Tom Gruat, one of the leading references in French workwear, as well as Denis Bruna, chief curator at the Musée des Arts décoratifs in Paris, and Frédéric Marc Marion, vintage dealer and collector of French workwear. We also speak with six French workwear experts in Japan, who explain why it has been booming there in recent years.
We visit Euro-Costumes, a costume rental company in Pantin near Paris, and meet its owner Pascale Bourtequoi, who built a colossal stock of antique clothing. Along the way, we decode the details collectors love — how to recognize buttons on a French hunting jacket, and what moleskin really is.
What’s inside (highlights)
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Miners and “bleus de travail”: the history of miners in Northern France and their iconic uniform
The Firefighter’s Ball: 19th-century indigo linen firefighter jackets and their enduring appeal
Le Mont Saint-Michel — Breton history: the story of a legendary brand that dressed Breton peasants for decades
Japan under the “French” spell: six Japanese store owners explain a real cultural phenomenon
Visiting Euro-Costumes: inside one of the largest costume archives in France
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Tom Gruat: the leading reference in French workwear — a must-read conversation
Douglas Gunn: co-founder of The Vintage Showroom (with Roy Luckett) on publishing French workwear research
Denis Bruna: chief curator at the Musée des Arts décoratifs on working-class clothing through the centuries
Frédéric Marc Marion: founder of Bazar des Poilus retraces his journey and archive
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La Moisson: an exclusive cover painting by Greg Newbold created for AVANT
Douce France: antique French images from Tom Gruat’s archives, Romainville Town Hall, and the Museum of Bretagne
Private Collection: rare French pieces from Tom Gruat’s personal archive
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The moleskin jacket
Animal buttons on French hunting jackets
What is indigo linen?
La France Travail: a beautiful collection of vintage books