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An Anthology of Western Wear
After four issues dedicated to workwear and military clothing, AVANT heads West with its fifth issue dedicated to Western Wear.
We go back to the first cowboys who helped shape the American frontier — and explore how painters and Hollywood turned them into universal icons. But as always, AVANT stays true to its core mission: clothes and style. This issue traces the evolution of Western wear, focusing on the history of two of its most iconic pieces: the Western shirt and the Stetson hat.
You’ll also discover the story of Rodeo Ben, one of the greatest rodeo tailors of all time — the man who designed the first Wrangler jeans — plus conversations with collectors, designers, and passionate storytellers who prove the American West has no borders.
With prefaces written by two legends of the West — Steve Weil (grandson of Papa Jack Weil, founder of Rockmount Ranch Wear) and Lynn Downey (former Levi Strauss & Co. historian and a specialist in dude ranching) — each story offers both a deep historical dive and a modern perspective on how Western clothing still influences culture today.
What’s inside (highlights)
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How the arts mythologized the American cowboy: how working ranchers became eternal symbols
The Western shirt: an American identity: from vaqueros to global icon
The origin of the Stetson hat: how John B. Stetson created a legend
Black cowboys: a forgotten history: a long-erased story now resurfacing
Dude Ranch Duds: how tourism helped spread Western style in popular culture
From suffragettes to Marilyn Monroe: the rise of women’s jeans: how denim became universal
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Bernie McMahon: proof the American West has no borders (from Melbourne, Australia)
Cowboy Phil Rupp: a walking ode to color, nature, and elegance
Courtenay De Hoff: from Kansas ranch life to mainstream TV
Joe David Walters: actor, musician, and founder of Union Western Clothing
Sergio Guardi: Barbanera’s designer and creative director
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Electric Desert: a masterpiece by Western painter Mark Maggiori
Images of the West: twelve cowboy images to set the tone
Private Collection: rare Western Wear pieces from the collections of Bernie McMahon, Joe David Walters, Eric Maggiori, and Wouter Munnichs
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A love letter to cowboy boots, by Joey Medina
Seven things to know about cowboy accessories
When modern fashion meets tradition: the westerner’s shopping list
The Wrangler comic books
