Mastering the Art of Americana Style:

A Complete Guide for Men’s Fashion

Americana style mixes workwear, western wear, military surplus and sportswear into something rugged, practical and quietly romantic. Think denim jeans, chambray shirts, flannels, leather jackets, chore coats, cowboy boots, varsity knits – all rooted in real American history, not just trends.

This guide is AVANT’s overview of Americana menswear: where it comes from, the key pieces, how to build a wardrobe and which brands to explore – from Levi’s and Wrangler to RRL, Stetson and Japanese Americana labels.

Americana Style menswear guide AVANT

What Is Americana Style?

Americana style is a heritage-focused way of dressing built on garments originally made for work, ranch life, the military and sport:

  • Clothes built for durability and function

  • Fabrics like denim, canvas, wool, flannel and leather

  • Colours pulled from nature and uniforms: indigo, khaki, olive, brown, cream

Over the 20th century, these garments moved from pioneers, cowboys, railroad workers and soldiers to Hollywood rebels and, eventually, global fashion.

Americana today isn’t necessarily “dressing like a cowboy.” It’s more about wearing honest, well-made clothes that quietly reference those worlds.

A Short History of Americana Menswear

Frontier Workwear

19th-century American workers – miners, ranch hands, railroad workers – needed hard-wearing clothes. Denim, duck canvas and heavy twill became the uniform: jeans, overalls, chore coats and early denim jackets.

Western & Cowboy Imagery

On the plains and ranches, the cowboy hat, denim, bandanas and boots formed another visual code. Later, Hollywood westerns and country music exported this look to the world, turning it into a mythic symbol of freedom and individualism.

Military Surplus & Ivy Influence

After WWII, military garments – field jackets, chinos, pea coats – flooded surplus stores and were adopted by students, beatniks and protesters for their utility and symbolism.

At the same time, the American campus wardrobe (varsity jackets, sweatshirts, Oxford shirts) helped shape a more collegiate side of Americana.

From Subculture to Global Style

By the late 20th century, brands in Japan and Europe were obsessively studying American workwear and denim, recreating it with even higher levels of craftsmanship – this is where Japanese Americana enters the story, with brands like Kapital, Warehouse & Co, OrSlow, etc.

Today, Americana is a global language of menswear – still rooted in those original garments.

Two men in cowboy hats and jackets standing outdoors in a black and white photo.

The Four Pillars of Americana Style worn by Icons

Paul Newman as Butch Cassidy

Workwear

Key pieces:

  • Raw or rinsed denim jeans

  • Denim jacket / trucker jacket Wikipédia

  • Chore / barn jacket in canvas or twill Wikipédia

  • Chambray or denim shirts

  • Work shirts in heavy cotton or flannel

A man dressed as a cowboy standing in a historic Western cemetery with graves and mountains in the background.

Clint Eastwood (The God, The Bad & the Ugly)

Western Wear

Key pieces:

  • Western shirts (snap buttons, pointed yokes)

  • Cowboy boots

  • Western belts and buckles

  • Cowboy hats (Stetson, etc.)

A man in a vintage leather baseball glove and a leather bomber jacket standing outdoors, with trees and a building in the background.

Steve McQueen (The Great Escape)

Military /Utility

Key pieces:

  • Field jacket / M-65

  • Chinos (originally military)

  • Peacoats and deck jackets

  • Fatigue pants and cargo trousers

Black and white photograph of a young man squatting with hands clasped, wearing a sweater, pants, sneakers, and a watch.

Paul Newman

Sportswear

Key pieces:

  • Crewneck sweatshirts & hoodies

  • Varsity / letterman jackets

  • Baseball caps

  • High-top canvas sneakers

Want to learn more about Americana ?
Browse our full collection of books about workwear, militaria, western wear and more.

An Anthology of Western Wear An Anthology of Western Wear
An Anthology of American Militaria
An Anthology of American Workwear An Anthology of American Workwear
An Anthology of American Workwear 2 An Anthology of American Workwear 2
Épuisé
Front view of a clothing store with black exterior and large glass windows, displaying mannequins wearing clothes inside. There are two potted plants on either side of the entrance, a small set of stairs with a handrail, and a purple flag with the store's name and details hanging outside. The store is located at 381 West 38th Street, with signage indicating it deals in dry goods and quality select men's clothing.

Key Americana Brands to Explore

Heritage Icons (USA)

  • Levi’s / Levi’s Vintage Clothing – jeans & denim jackets

  • Wrangler – rodeo and cowboy-oriented denim

  • Lee

  • Red Wing, Wesco, White’s – work boots

  • Filson, Carhartt – outerwear and workwear

  • Pendleton – wool shirts and blankets

Americana with a Luxury Twist

  • RRL (Double RL) – Ralph Lauren’s Americana lab

  • Ralph Lauren mainline western pieces

  • Todd Snyder – modern NYC take on heritage

Western Specialists

  • Stetson – hats & caps

  • Lucchese, Tony Lama, Tecovas, etc. – cowboy boots

Japanese & Global Americana

  • Kapital – eccentric, heavily Americana-influenced Japanese label

  • Warehouse & Co, Full Count, Studio D’Artisan, OrSlow, Iron Heart – repro / denim specialists

  • European interpreters like Nigel Cabourn, Universal Works, APC (denim), etc.

Americana Shopping Guide

AVANT Editor’s Picks for building an Americana Wardrobe with 12 essentials

  1. Straight or slim-straight jeans in mid- to dark indigo

  2. Denim jacket (Type II or Type III style)

  3. Chore or barn jacket in canvas / twill

  4. Plaid flannel shirt

  5. Chambray or western shirt

  6. White and ecru tees / henleys

  7. Leather jacket (biker, bomber, ranch or trucker style)

  8. Chinos (khaki or olive)

  9. Work boots (e.g. service boots)

  10. Cowboy boots for the western pillar

  11. Sneakers (converse-type canvas or simple leather)

  12. Hats & accessories – Stetson-style hats, beanies, bandanas, leather belts

Americana Shopping Guide
AVANT Editor’s Pick — Jackets

Americana isn’t about chasing trends – it’s about building a wardrobe of honest, hard-wearing pieces you’ll still want to wear in ten years. This section gathers our seasonal edit of Americana staples across jackets, shirts, knitwear, denim, trousers, boots and accessories.

We look for:

- Heritage construction – fabrics and details that could have existed 50 years ago

- Real-world wearability – pieces that fit city life as well as ranch or road trip fantasies

- Character – garments that will only get better with patina, fading and repairs

Explore the categories below and use them as a starting point to build (or refine) your Americana wardrobe.

Best Americana Jackets Right Now

Jackets are the backbone of Americana style: they set the silhouette and tell most of the story. Our current selection focuses on four archetypes – denim, chore, field and leather – that cover almost every situation from daily commute to road trip.

What we look for in jackets

  • Solid, reassuring fabrics: denim, duck canvas, twill, wool, leather

  • Simple, functional pocket layouts

  • Historic references (workwear, military, western) without feeling like costume

Denim & Trucker Jackets

Your first layer of Americana: Type II/III-inspired truckers, ranch jackets, lined denim for colder months.

This selection is updated regularly to reflect current availability and seasonal drops.

Chore & Barn Jackets

Canvas, cotton or twill jackets with patch pockets, originally made for farm and workshop use.

Field & Military Jackets

M-65s, deck jackets, parkas and utility coats in olive, khaki, navy.

Leather Jackets

Riders, bombers, truckers and ranch coats in leather or suede.

Americana Shopping Guide
AVANT Editor’s Pick — Shirts & Knitwear

Best Americana Shirts & Knitwear
Right Now

Shirts and knitwear bring in texture, colour and pattern – from western yokes to buffalo checks, Navajo motifs and college sweats. This is where your outfits start to feel truly lived-in.

What we look for here

  • Natural fibres (cotton, wool) or blends that still feel honest

  • Patterns rooted in history: checks, work stripes, blanket motifs

  • Pieces that can be layered under denim, chore or leather jackets

Flannels & Casual Shirts

Brushed cotton and wool blends in checks, plaids or subtle patterns.

Chambray & Western Shirts

Chambray work shirts and western snaps with pointed yokes and pearl buttons.

Sweats, Cardigans & Knitwear

Crewneck sweats, hoodies, shawl-collar cardigans, fisherman knits and blanket-inspired pullovers.

Americana Shopping Guide
AVANT Editor’s Pick — Denim & Trousers

Best Americana Denim & Trousers
Right Now

If jackets are the backbone, denim and trousers are the legs of Americana. Fit and fabric matter more than any logo: you want clean lines, comfortable rises and sturdy cloth that can handle real life.

Our guiding ideas:

  • Mostly straight, slim-straight or relaxed silhouettes

  • Fabric weights that make sense for the season

  • Colours that play nicely with indigo, brown, olive, khaki and cream

Jeans

Raw, rinsed and washed denim in classic fits.

Chinos & Work Pants

Twill chinos, double-knee work pants, carpenter and painter pants.

Fatigues & Utility Trousers

Military-inspired fatigues, cargo pants and other utility silhouettes.

Americana Shopping Guide
AVANT Editor’s Pick — Boots & Accessories

Best Americana Boots & Accessories
Right Now

The right boots and small details can quietly turn a simple jeans-and-tee combo into something very Americana. Think work boots, cowboy boots, leather belts, hats, bandanas, silver or brass details.

We prioritise:

  • Footwear that can be resoled and repaired

  • Leather that will darken and patinate

  • Accessories that feel discovered, not overdesigned

Work Boots & Service Boots

Lace-up boots inspired by old work and military models.

This selection is updated regularly to reflect current availability and seasonal drops.

Cowboy Boots & Western Footwear

Pointed or rounded western boots, ropers, roughout suede.

Hats, Caps & Bandanas

Cowboy hats, felt fedoras, caps, beanies, bandanas and scarves.

Belts, Leather Goods & Jewellery

Belts, wallets, key fobs, bracelets, rings and small metal details.

Classic Leather Belt in Cognac
Tanner Goods

XL Turquoise Shield Pin
for hats
Red Rabbit Trading Co

Americana Style FAQ

Is Americana style just western / cowboy clothing?

No. Western wear is one pillar of Americana, but the style also includes workwear (denim, chore coats), military pieces (field jackets, fatigues) and campus sportswear (varsity jackets, sweats).

Do I have to wear cowboy boots and a hat?

Not at all. You can build a fully Americana wardrobe with jeans, chore jackets, flannels and work boots. Western boots and hats are optional – powerful accents rather than mandatory items.

Can I wear Americana style outside the US?

Absolutely. Americana is now a global menswear language. Japanese and European brands have been reinterpreting it for decades, often with even more attention to detail than the originals. 

How do I start if my wardrobe is very minimal?

Begin with one pair of good jeans, a workwear jacket (denim or chore), a flannel and a pair of solid boots. Once you’re comfortable, add a western shirt or field jacket.

Which AVANT issues should I read if I love Americana style?

The AVANT View on Americana

Americana, as AVANT sees it, isn’t about dressing up in old clichés or chasing retro for its own sake. It’s a language – a way to talk about craft and labour, about the quiet heroism of the clothes that were built to work first and look good second. It’s also about the
myth-making around the American West: the rodeos, the ranches, the open roads that live half in history and half in our collective imagination.

And it’s about the way uniforms, work clothes and subcultural dress become icons, how a pair of jeans, a field jacket or a cowboy hat ends up carrying stories far beyond the people who wore them first.

If there’s one rule we’d keep from all of this, it’s simple: go slowly. Build your wardrobe piece by piece, choose garments that are well made, and give them the time to fade, crease and repair.

Let your clothes collect your stories rather than someone else’s marketing. And when you’re ready to dive deeper into specific universes – from ranch coats and selvedge denim to western hats – use our brand guides (RRL, Stetson and more to come) as your next stops along the trail.