Ralph Lauren in Milan: Heritage, Workwear, and Timeless Elegance
With the internally coined concept Rolling Thunder, Ralph Lauren highlights a powerful and very real momentum: the renewed fascination with its menswear universe, driven by a growing appetite for archival pieces, vintage references, and a deeply heritage-driven approach to style. This evolution strongly echoes the philosophy behind RRL Ralph Lauren, where clothing is rooted in history, function, and lived experience.
It was within this context that the American house returned to the Milan menswear runway, marking only its third men’s show since the beginning of the 21st century. A significant moment, reaffirming the scope, coherence, and cultural depth of the Ralph Lauren menswear vision.
Courtesy of Ralph Lauren
Polo and Purple Label Together: A Holistic View of Menswear
To express the breadth of its heritage, Ralph Lauren made the rare decision to present Polo Ralph Lauren and Purple Label on the same runway. Two lines with distinct identities, yet united by a shared understanding of masculinity, authenticity, and timeless style.
This juxtaposition offered a clear reading of how the brand speaks to multiple generations of men—from the instinctive and experimental to the refined and sophisticated—without ever breaking its narrative continuity. A philosophy closely aligned with RRL, where workwear, western influences, and tailoring naturally coexist.
Polo Ralph Lauren: Vintage Energy and Workwear Spirit
The Polo collection stood out for its expressive freedom and layered references. Folk-inspired gorpcore fleeces, richly textured jacquards, hand-painted washed denim, and cotton work trousers printed with foliage motifs formed a dynamic and highly tactile wardrobe.
Reissued Polo Sport rugby shirts were paired with knitted polos featuring deliberately anachronistic gothic typography. The result was a vibrant, eclectic silhouette language, reminiscent of how younger collectors reinterpret and remix vintage Ralph Lauren pieces today.
This approach directly resonates with the aesthetic of RRL Ralph Lauren, where wear, patina, and historical layering are embraced as essential elements of style.
Ivy League Meets the American West
Some of the strongest looks came from the collision of classic codes: mid-century navy blazers reworked through an Ivy League lens with grey flannel tailoring, Bengal-striped shirts, and wide cashmere ties.
A suede western jacket adorned with beads and fringe reinforced the presence of the American West, while evening trousers cut from authentic Black Watch tartan kilt fabric featured fringed side seams that revealed their textile origins. This attention to material authenticity and provenance lies at the very core of Ralph Lauren’s design philosophy and is fundamental to the Ralph Lauren universe.
Silhouettes were often generous and deliberately shaped, reflecting the way vintage Ralph Lauren garments are worn and collected today, prioritizing longevity and real-life wearability.
Purple Label: A Controlled, Multifaceted Elegance
In contrast, Purple Label offered a more architectural and introspective interpretation of menswear. Opening looks explored camel double-faced cashmere, rendered in softly deconstructed pieces layered over grey flannel and cable knits. Anthracite and grey tailoring moved fluidly between formality and relaxed refinement.
A chapter devoted to the gentleman adventurer introduced standout pieces such as a cream shearling utility parka and a black aviator jumpsuit with an almost tuxedo-like presence, styled with shirt, tie, and an artisanal western belt. The final look layered a cashmere sherpa coat over evening tailoring, grounded by mountain boots—demonstrating Purple Label’s ability to balance multiple identities within a single silhouette.
Top 10 Styles Seen on the Runway
The chore jacket and straight-leg jeans distill American Workwear through layered denim, functional silhouettes, and a lived-in feel, while the patterned shirt and hat add a personal, Western-inflected edge.
Paint-splattered denim and a fringed suede jacket capture the crossroads of American workwear and Western Wear, where labor, artistry, and personal expression collide. A look rooted in utility, elevated by storytelling and wear.
A patched canvas jacket layered over tailoring and worn denim captures the soul of American workwear refined where utility garments age with character and are elevated through craftsmanship. A balance of rugged function and inherited elegance, built for a life well worn.
A statement knit rooted in Heritage Americana, balanced by tailored trousers and a western belt, bold in expression, disciplined in structure, and unmistakably Ralph Lauren.
A cinematic Western silhouette where frontier elegance meets modern tailoring, evoking the spirit of Yellowstone and Westworld through velvet, sharp lines, and quiet authority.
A refined take on Western heritage, pairing a fringed suede jacket with crisp trousers and a patterned knit. Relaxed yet precise, it captures Ralph Lauren’s ability to turn frontier codes into effortless modern elegance.
An unapologetically outdoor, grizzly-inspired look, shearling outerwear layered over formal tailoring and grounded with rugged boots. A powerful expression of Ralph Lauren’s world, where wilderness strength meets refined masculinity.
A vibrant take on American preppy, mixing varsity knits, layered polos, and relaxed denim. Sporty, youthful, and lived-in, it captures the easy confidence of campus style worn beyond the Ivy gates.
A bold patchwork knit layered over denim, blending outdoor utility with preppy roots. Graphic, textured, and lived-in, it reflects a love for heritage patterns worn with everyday ease.
Hand-painted trousers channel the expressive spirit of 1980s Polo artistry, recalling the graphic, narrative work of Nicholas Gamarello. Paired with cozy layers, the look blends craftsmanship, nostalgia, and a boldly personal take on American sportswear.
A Cohesive Vision of Ralph Lauren’s Heritage
From Polo to Purple Label, the Milan show articulated a coherent narrative of modern masculinity one that embraces elegance, utility, and personal expression in equal measure. The collections explored different lifestyles and attitudes, yet remained firmly anchored in authenticity and heritage.
This return to Milan was not simply a runway moment, but a powerful reaffirmation of Ralph Lauren’s storytelling strength. A vision where past, present, and future intersect seamlessly and where Ralph Lauren stands as one of the clearest expressions of this enduring cultural legacy.
